Uncle Zain, My Ipoh Connection

The marriage between Aunt Fatimah and Uncle Zain is a blessing for the members of the extended family that generated from the family of my Great-great-grandpa Jusop. This union in matrimony had brought closer two nuclear families in an extended family. Uncle Zain is the cousin of my late maternal grandmother, Hajah Ramlah. Grandma Ramlah's mother is the older sister of Uncle Zain's father whom my mum used to call Grand-uncle Jesin (Hussein). He followed his father, my Great-great-grandpa Jusop, to Malaysia from Bawean Island during the British colonization in the Malay Peninsula. They used to live at Sungai Rokam in Ipoh, Perak.

(Hari Raya Eid-ul-Fitr 1995)

 

According to Aunt Fatimah, my Great-great-grandpa Jusop had another marriage, having another set of children from his other wife. And through her (descendants), he had produced the first batch of several well-educated Malaysian of Baweanese descent professionals in his family; a banker, two engineers, an accountant, a doctor and a lawyer –the well-known six brothers in Ipoh that became successful through educations. One of them is Hj.Asmuni bin Awi, the well-known lawyer turned Politician in the State of Perak.

 

(A proud Grandfather)

Uncle Zain is himself among the successful one in this family. He is an ex-army officer who received the title Dato', given to him by the Sultan of Pahang due to his bravery, serving the Malaysia Military. During his army life, he was always working overseas. I remember during my childhood he used to bring goodies for me and my sister every time he returned home from Africa to Singapore at Pondok Kalompang Gubuk. The children of the Pondok loved him as he used to entertain with stories from his army adventures working in Congo.

(Nenek Moya's first and last visit to my home - January 1996)

 

Uncle Zain was born and raised in Ipoh, Perak. His older and only sister, my late dear Grand-aunt whom I used to call Nenek Moya (Salmah), loved him very much. She took care of him since he was a little boy. My mum told me that Nenek Moya used to give up her portion of food to her little brother during their difficult period living as orphans. I always remember Nenek Moya as a wonderful lovable person. During my childhood, I used to accompany my grandparents every time they visited Nenek Moya and other relatives in Ipoh.

Like Nenek Moya, Uncle Zain treats me and my siblings with kindness. Spending my time with Uncle Zain and his family makes me happy. Often I forgotten that he is only my uncle. He makes me feel as though I am his daughter – a daughter he wishes to have. Uncle Zain is like a father to me. He is a generous and kind-hearted person; free from black spots covering the heart -the disease of a bad-hearted soul.

 

(Aunt Nuri and Aunt Yati, the daugthers of Nenek Moya -visted Singapore in April 1986)

The relationships between Uncle Zain and my father were more than brother-in-laws. They were good friends who always helped each other. Uncle Zain was always there for my father in good and bad times. My father too was always there every time Uncle Zain needed a helping hand. I remember during the time living in a HDB flat, my father offered Uncle Zain and his family to live together with us while waiting for their home in Johor to be ready. Aunt Fatimah and her two sons lived with my family for about six months while Uncle Zain was out-stationed in Congo. During that period, as the oldest among the little ones, I used to bring my little cousins to the playground and watched over them as they played happily with the other kids living around the area.

Until today my cousins and I are very close. To them, I am more than a cousin – an older sister living in Singapore. Indeed Uncle Zain's family members are my next-of-kin in Malaysia. Through marriage, Uncle Zain and Aunt Fatimah had made the blood-ties stronger between my Singaporean relatives and the relatives in Malaysia.

(This post is dedicated to my dear Uncle Zain and his family. According to me, Uncle Zain and Aunt Fatimah is a perfect match made in heaven. Their children are my blood-ties and always be my dear little brothers even though they are now adults. To my Malaysian cousins - indeed we are in a family of different Nationality, living in two different countries linked by a causeway ....yet... We are one big family and will always be...)

My Aunt Fatimah, the Great Cook

Putra Jaya, Malaysia 2000

 

Hajah Fatimah binte Ali is my maternal aunt. She is my mother's younger sister, the third child among eight siblings and the second oldest daughter in the family. According to my mum, Aunt Fatimah used to help my grandmother in the kitchen while my mum busy doing the laundry for the family. My aunt told me that during her teens, she and my mum used to attend cooking and baking classes at Kampong Kapor Community Centre situated opposite their home, Pondok Kalompang Gubuk.
 

Aunt Fatimah and my mum during their teens

 

Aunt Fatimah loves to cook and is extremely good in it. She cooks irresistible delicious food! Often her friends requested for her to cook during functions such as Aqiqah, Hari Raya Open House and House Warming. It became so frequent that she decided to do a small food catering business. Like my Grandma Ramlah, Aunt Fatimah is an expert in making Nusantara desserts - Putri Salat, Talam Keladi, Koleh-koleh, Talam Berlauk, Talam Suji, Ondeh-ondeh, Pulut panggang... you name it, she knows them all!

Living with Aunt Fatimah in 1986

 

It is not surprising that Aunt Fatimah is always there on my mind every time I think about Baweanese food. This is because her cooking reminds me of the food my late Grandma Ramlah used to cook. The dishes prepared by Aunt Fatimah always taste the same as those cooked by my dear grandmother. Unfortunately for me, she does not live nearby my home. My aunt is a Malaysian, living across the causeway in the State of Johor.
 

My two cousins, Faizal and Irman during childhood in the early 1970s

 

Even though my aunt was born in Johor Baru, she was raised in Singapore. A former student of Cedar Secondary School, she got married in her late teens after completing her studies. Her husband, Hj. Mohammad Zain bin Hashim, is a Malaysian born Baweanese. He is the maternal cousin of my Grandma Ramlah. Hence, my uncle-in-law is also my maternal grand-uncle! (According to Islam, it is legal for cousins to get married to each other hence, so are the cousins of the parents, cousins of grand parents and so on.)

 

My two cousins Riko and Shaz -at Dungun, Trengganu 1987

Aunt Fatimah has four sons - my dear cousins whom I used to babysit during childhood, treating them as my own younger brothers. All four of them are Malaysians even though the first two were born in Singapore. Aunt Fatimah and Uncle Zain are now proud grand-parents to several grand-children from their first two oldest sons.

The cousins -at Berjaya Times Square Hotel, Malaysia 2008

 

Like my paternal Aunt Jamaliah, Aunt Fatimah always has a special place in my heart. She is like a second mother to me. I used to live with her during my childhood and also during the early years of my marriage, the time my husband was seconded to work at Pasir Gudang for three years.

My cousins' children -at Berjaya Times Square Hotel, Malaysia 2008

 

Like my mum, Aunt Fatimah had taught me a lot of things; from teaching me about this life and Islam, to doing house chores - laundry, cooking, cleaning, tidying and managing a home, to nurturing children, imparting good values and manners to them. She is a school in her own rights imparting her knowledge to this niece, showing through example the path undertaken by an obedient daughter, a kind sister, a motherly aunt, a loving and faithful wife, a wonderful mother as well as a good neighbour as desired by Islam.

Me... always a loving aunt to the children of my dear Malaysian cousins.

 

(This post is dedicated to my beloved Aunt Fatimah. I love you very much my dear aunt. According to me, you are beautiful in every way. Thank you for being a wonderful aunt who is always there for all of us - your nieces and nephews, the children of your siblings. May Almighty Allah always be there for you throughout your life. Ameen.) 

Roti Boyan - The Baweanese Bread

The original "Roti Boyan" filled with mashed potatoes served with "Sambel Bilis"

A Baweanese is always a Baweanese no matter how the individual Baweanese progresses in life, moving away from the pondok lifestyle, becoming very different from those of his or her forefathers who came from the remote tiny island of Bawean to Singapore. Today, in cosmopolitan Singapore, a Baweanese descent like me is constantly exposed to many cultures and traditions, enjoying different kinds of food and flavours, yet still ended up getting attached to the Baweanese culture, especially the Baweanese food. I am always yearning for them, the Baweanese authentic dishes that the pioneer Baweanese people of Singapore, like my late grandmothers, grand aunties and mother-in-law used to cook.
 

The other side of the original "Roti Boyan" with potatoes fillings

Even though I had travelled far and wide, experienced variety of dishes from many different countries, I still love having "Roti Boyan", the Baweanese bread, for breakfast or afternoon tea. Although I have been living in Singapore most of my early life, mixing with other Singaporeans of different races and cultures, enjoying their food such as the Thai Tom Yam, the Chinese Noodle, the Indian Prata, the Italian Pizza, the Middle Eastern Kebab, the Hainanese Chicken Rice, the Western Hamburgers and many others, I still look around for the Baweanese bread. Even my children, who have very little exposure to the Baweanese food, enjoy eating "Roti Boyan". They showed thumb-up  and asked for more when I first introduced it to them.

"Roti Boyan" that similar to the Indian Prata

There are two types of Baweanese bread. One is similar to the Indian Prata and the other is filled with mashed potatoes. During my childhood, I used to have "Roti Boyan" for breakfast and sometimes during teatime. My favourite "Roti Boyan" is the one with mashed potatoes fillings. My late maternal grandmother was an expert in making it!

"Sambel Bilis"

In making the dough for "Roti Boyan", my grandmother normally used ghee mixed with warm water and salt before pouring the flour. I used to help her around with the boiling of potatoes, peeling the skin, mashing them in a bowl, adding a little salt, pepper, chopped celery, and eggs, mixing them into a perfect filling. Then I would help her with the lighting up of fire on the stove. At that time, during the 1970s the pondok people were still using kerosene stove for cooking. When the fire was burning right, it was time to put the wok on the stove and filled it with cooking oil. My grandma would prepare the bread to pan fry in the heated wok. This bread is usually eaten with the Baweanese "Sambel Bilis" - Chilli Anchovy.

The "Roti Boyan" that similar to Indian Prata with fried egg on it

Making the other type of Baweanese bread is simpler than the previous. The method of making the dough is the same as the first one. The dough is rolled on a pin several times, greasing it with oil before rolling it multiple times. When done, it is time to pan fry it on a heated wok. Then beaten egg with sliced onion is poured onto the bread. This bread is usually eaten with the Baweanese "Sambel Bilis" or "Sambel Tomes Tongkol" or "Semur Tongkol". Yummy!
 

"Semur Tongkol"

Today, "Roti Boyan" is eaten not only by the Baweanese people but also others from different ethnic groups living in the Singapore Malay community. The favourite is the one filled with mashed potatoes. It became popular with a different look!

 

The new look of "Roti Boyan" with potatoes fillings

Kelah Celok – The Baweanese “National” dish

Kelah Celok Tongkol

 

"Kelah Celok" is an authentic Baweanese dish. "Kelah" is the Baweanese word for dish and "Celok" means sour. There are two types of Kelah Celok ; fish and vegetable.

 

Kelah Celok Bechok

The fish "Kelah Celok" is a type of dish by which big fish such as Tuna, Red Snapper, or Humphead Wrasse (Bechok) is sliced thinly and cook in a boiling pot filled with water, tamarind juice, salt, blended fresh red chilli, green chilli, garlic, turmeric, onion, shrimp paste (belacan) and few corriander seeds (ketumbar).

Humphead Wrasse (Bechok)

 

Smaller fish such as Gold banded Scad (Selar Kuning), Herring (Tamban), or Indian Mackerel (Kembong) is the substitute for the big fish. However, in cooking the smaller fish, usually fresh sliced pineapple is added into the boiling pot. During preparation of this dish on the dining table, few stalk of small fresh chillies (chilli padi) are added into the bowl. Lime juice is squeeze on to the dish to make it tastier. The dish is to be served steamy hot with steam white rice .

 

Herring (Tamban)

The other type of "Kelah Celok" is prepared using vegetable such as long beans or ladies fingers. When cooking long beans in "Kelah Celok", the beans are cut into smaller pieces and added into a boiling pot filled with water, tamarind juice, salt, sugar, blended fresh red chilli, onion, shrimp paste and few corriander seeds. Together with steam white rice, this dish goes well with fried fish such as sliced Tuna or Kembong. Sambal belacan with cucumber make the meal appealing.
 

Celok Bendi dish  

Sambal belacan is grilled belacan pounded with fresh red chilli and sugar. It goes well with cucumber. Sometimes it is prepared with mashed hardboiled eggs and shredded green sour mango to add more flavors to the meal. The Baweanese from my Pondok called this side dish as "Penchek-penchek".
 

Kelah Celok Otok

It has been quite awhile since I last ate rice with "Kelah Celok Otok" ('Otok' is the Baweanese word for long beans) with fried tuna fish and "Penchek-penchek". I hope my mum will prepare them during my next visit to her home! Endek, Endek, Endek....nyaman Ongku!

''Cukok Tongkol'' - the Baweanese delicacy

"Cukok Tongkol" - Tuna fish

Generally, Singaporean Baweanese enjoy eating ''Cukok Tongkol''. ''Cukok'' is a Baweanese word for fish and ''Tongkol'' refers to ''Tuna''. Tuna is associated with the Baweanese people due to their passion eating this fish, turning it into a delicacy in their daily meals. This is a well-known fact among the people living in the Malay community. Some Baweanese take pride of this fact for they can be easily identified as a ''Boyan'' living among the other Indonesian ethnic groups in this community.

Like any other Singaporean Baweanese, I love to eat ''Cukok Tongkol'' which can be cooked into variety of dishes. My mother often cook dishes such as ''Celok Tongkol'', ''Semur Tongkol'', ''Phentheng Tongkol'', ''Sambel Tomes Tongkol'', ''Tomes Tongkol''. They are my favorite dishes eaten with steam white rice. Yummy!

''Sambel Tomes Tongkol'' - the Baweanese version of the Malay Asam Pedas dish

''Celok Tongkol'' - the pride of Baweanese delicacy
  ''Phentheng Tongkol'' -the Baweanese version of the Malay Pindang dish

During my childhood days in the 1960s and 1970s while living in Pondok Kalompang Gubuk, I remember helping my grandmother with the grilling of Tuna. To go with it, she would prepare black sauce mixed with fresh pounded chilli, thinly sliced onion and lime juice. In other occasion, she would prepare ''Buja Chappi'' – pounded fresh chilli with salt mixed with lime juice. ''Buja'' is the Baweanese word for salt while ''Chappi'' is the Baweanese word for chilli.

 

Sliced Tuna
 

"Lemak Kengan" -Green vegetables coconut soup

Tuna can also be sliced thinly and marinated with salted tumeric powder paste before deep fry. Fried Tuna can be eaten with steam white rice and green vegetables coconut soup. My grandmother used to prepare ''Penchek-Penchek'' - boiled eggs mashed with chilli shrimp paste (sambal belacan) and green sour mango shredded very thinly, to make the meal appealing. In other occasion, she would steam ''Paes Tongkol'' -thinly sliced boiled Tuna with dried chilli paste mixed with tamarind juice, sugar and salt wrapped in banana leaves. Hmmm! I miss my grandmother's cooking very much!